I received an ask from @kpoke regarding how to draft a collar and facing for a sailor uniform so I made some quick sketches on how to draft your own. (btw it’s 1:40AM right now so sorry for the really bad drawings lol…)
This method works for any type of bodice you want to add the collar to, so you can use this on a dress or a blouse if you wanted to. For more details, read below:
Preferably, you’ll need to have already fitted your bodice by making a muslin. Take the 3 following measurements: 1) original collar to new stopping point on the CF line, 2) collar width, 3) back collar length. (marked in the above photos)
1) depends on your design, since some uniforms have deeper collars than others (ex. Haruhi),
2) is usually the length from collar to shoulder minus around 1.5cm, and
3) is usually the distance down to the middle of the shoulder blades, or around the under arm point.
Draw in or remove all seam allowances from your bodice pattern pieces (this is usually 5/8” on commercial patterns, if you’re using one). These are your stitching lines and what we want to use to draft the collar and facing.
On the CF line of your front bodice piece (this might be the cut on fold line), measure down from the neck line the measurement you took for (1). Using a curved ruler or freehand, draw a slightly curved line from the point where the collar meets the shoulder to the point you just measured. The neck line should hit the base of the neck on the back piece of the bodice, if it’s too low then raise it to that point. Otherwise, leave the back piece alone. This is your new neck line. Cut it out of your muslin and try it back on to see if it fits. You should be able to slip your head in and out of it with no problem.
After that, tape the two pattern pieces together at the shoulder stitching lines (see photo above). Trace the neck line out on a piece of paper. Following the CB line (the cut on fold line of your back bodice), measure down (3) and trace out that line. On the shoulder line, measure out (2) and mark that point. Using these measurements as a guide, draw out the collar shape you want. What I usually do is cut out the neck hole and pin the paper to my dress form (you can pin it to your shirt too or just hold it up to your body) and draw in the shape I want with a pen, then take it off and smooth it out with a ruler afterwards.
For the facing, measure in 1.5”~2” (width is personal preference really) from the neck line of your pattern pieces and mark. You can curve the point at the bottom or square it off if you want. That’s it!
Oh, and you’ll have to add seam allowances back to the pattern pieces you drafted. Pick a seam allowance you’re comfortable with sewing (5/8” or something else). Add this SA to all necklines on each pattern piece (this includes the bodice pieces, since you drafted the neckline!), as well as the shoulder lines for both facing pieces. For the outer edges of the collar, I usually add 1/4” SA because that’s the width of my presser foot but you can add whatever you’re comfortable with sewing. Don’t add anything to the CF or CB lines, these will be your cut on fold lines.
Hopefully this helps! If anything’s confusing, please send me an ask and I’ll try to reply as soon as possible. I’ll be putting this info in my tutorial later too.
(btw, the updated school uniform tutorial will be delayed until after AX…sorry T_T I got an eye infection so I’m most likely dropping all of my uniforms for AX and doing eyepatch cosplays instead, which means I won’t be able to take any construction photos. If you need urgent help before AX then feel free to message me too!)